Today, shipping containers are being modified into everything from homes to computer server storage units and everything among, on the way containers are getting heavier and heavier. A dry 40 foot container weights about 6,800 pounds or about 21 pounds per square foot. Once it's modified in to a small commercial store, a cabin or simply just becomes a storage container or tool container the additional weight of framing materials, drywall, insulation, lighting, HVAC, plumbing, plus furnishings and fixtures and the pounds per square foot can simply increase by multiples of eight to ten times!
While this really is still not an astronomical number in terms of construction loads it's significant enough to be concerned about the proper design and of a station or foundation setting your building on. If the foundation or pad that you want setting your building CONTENEDORES USADOS on is not suitable, even a clear or lightly loaded container will settle, inducing the floors to be un-level and worse, doors which are very difficult to open, close and lock. Once a box (or any structure for that matter) has gone out of level, the condition will continue to worsen as additional dead loads (building weight) will be directed to the lower point of the structure. If you are planning to construct a shipment container house in an area where building permits are expected than a fully engineered foundation design should be a part of your submittal package. However if you are setting a storage container or a cabin or in a rural area where permitting is not required then be sure you do some prep work before taking delivery of your container.
The simplest kind of base or pad for the container would be a level spot, ideally excavated approximately 4 inches down seriously to an appartment, level surface, spread crushed concrete and compact it to about two inches, then spread some on 21A crushed limestone at the top and compact it to about two inches as well. Both of these products have a binder included that will assist the pad stay together though allow the moisture to drain through. This approach enables the container to go around with the frost but it will continue to work well for storage units and other uses where you won't have utility connections or the container is attached to other structures.
If you will live in the container, have utilities connected to it or connect it to another building then you should think about installing a pier foundation. This is still a fairly easy project and if all the proper tools can be found, you need to be done in a couple hours. Don't pinch pennies here if you don't have a post hole auger, rent one. A 12 inch bit will continue to work but I would recommend a 16 inch or 18 inch bit if available. The less stable your soil is the larger diameter your piers ought to be, when you have sandy soil, wet soil, or it's been filled previously then you should visit 18" piers.
First, set down and mark the four corners of your container, don't forget the 3, 4, 5 rule to ensure your layout is square.
It is in addition crucial to install a pier every ten feet down both parties of the container. That means you will have ten piers for a 40 foot shipping container and six piers for a 20 foot container. Mark each pier location.
You will require the container to rest in the middle of the pier so theoretically 1 / 2 of the circumference of the pier will be underneath the container and one other half outside the container.
Auger out your holes down seriously to the frost level locally, you need to end up getting a nice smooth cylinder with a somewhat flat bottom. You ought to try to have the concrete delivered right after your done drilling holes. If you try to wait overnight and it rains you will truly have a mess in your hands.
Fill the holes with concrete ensuring that you don't leave any voids. It's advisable to press a round concrete form like Sonotube, exactly the same diameter as your hole, over the top 4 to 6 inches of your concrete and level the Sonotube form.
VERY important, work with a short two by four to screed the concrete level, the very best of your piers must be level otherwise you won't gain the support you need.
Wait at the least 24 hours (preferably more), then carefully set your container along with your piers. You'll most likely need shims, be sure you use hardwood or steel shims, soft wood shims will do you no good.
The steps we've outlined here may appear like overkill but it's much less work than emptying out your container, moving it, and then performing the steps outlined at a later date. A great foundation provides you with a good basis for the container to offer you years of service.